mbadger53. I am in the process of restoring another German Log House (1800sf) two story big house, shaped like a T. Google the words “German Log House” and you will start to see the video’s of the process. There are over 200 logs in the log house I am working on. Some way over 700lbs. smearjay
ha ya i know its dangerous..but so far every tree i’v fallen has landed exactly wer ei want it to go. i cut like a v into the side of the tree were in which direction i want it to go. im cheating tho..haha im using a chainsaw..wich is mor dangerous but also much faster
You can put fiberglass in between the logs and chink over it. I’ve used spagnum moss and clay. Basically, whatever turns the wind. Sometimes we use gypsum plaster which is also used in stucco siding. That has worked pretty good on our last cabin. Just be sure to put a buffer (insulation) between the inside chinking and outside chinking. Have a good one!
Nice video, after watching you make the first cut I wondered how many have you done where you were distracted, or tired, or just plain thinking of something else, and made the second cut on the wrong side? LOL, I thought of it like I was doing it myself.I’m sure after the first one you get real carefull!I know I would make at least one….LOL
I just lay some boards together and nail a cross piece at the top and bottom, then nail one board diagonally from the top piece to the bottom piece. Looks like a Z. Then I get some strap hinges, or gate hinges depending on how heavy the door is, and hang it up, fastening it to the door jamb. Thanks for watching.
also id like some help with making the door hole. ive got about all i need for logs, so do i have to prep any logs so i can make a space for the door to sit in? and if the door is a little to small how would i stop the drafts?
WOW! I just realized that I would trade everything I own for just 1% of the experience and knowledge of the people with whom I have come in contact. Which, now that I think a little harder, is a huge trade up cnsidering that I neither own nor know anything!
I think everyone has their own way of making door openings. My preference is to build the crib completely, then using a carpenter’s level, make plumb lines for the openings, fasten boards to either side of the opening (one screw into each log, including the log above and below, so they don’t drop) then chain saw out the hole. Use trim pieces around the inside of the opening to help reduce draft. Make the hole first, then fit the door to the hole. I have a video clip, I’ll post it.
Moving the cabin from event to event, I use 1″X8″X7′ boards, lay them in place and put a tarp over it. Permanent cabins get either a cedar shake or tin roof. If pioneers had access to timber which was readily split they too used shakes.
Or, lay in your purlins or rafters. Cover with a layer of approximately 2″ poles, lay on birch bark cover, white side up, then cover with about 8″ of sod. Be sure your roof frame is very sturdy. In my White Oak video there’s roof like this on the short walled cabin, this roof has been there for 20 years and repels rain.
Green is fine. Settler’s didn’t wait two years while their logs dried, there just wasn’t that kind of time and they needed shelter immediately. I’ve used green pine many times. Just peel them, and allow for settling around the doors, windows and interior walls. 2-4 inches depending on the diameter of the log. Green is easier to work. The house I live in is white oak, which I dried for 5 years. Extremely hard to work and I still had to make allowances for settling. Good Luck.
well we call it tamarack…aka larch…the one that its needles turn yellow in the fall, and then fall off, and comes back in the summer, the only deciduous of the pine family (pine family, i think?) this is what wiki says “Larix laricina Tamarack Larch or American Larch. Plains of northern North America.” ……i live in NW montana
k yea yea tamarack is a native word meaning tree loses its nidels its the only tree with needels that actuly looses them but im surorises u have them that far south like in my town we dont even have them but where i hunt theres alot of tamarks
Actually that’s wrong. You want to allow some chink gap, recommended is 2″-4″ so when the inevitable settling occurs the logs don’t start to lift each other out of the crib. If you’re doing Swedish coping method, your logs are dryer, however there is still an unseen gap between the logs. But thank you for sharing your expertise.
mbadger53. I am in the process of restoring another German Log House (1800sf) two story big house, shaped like a T. Google the words “German Log House” and you will start to see the video’s of the process. There are over 200 logs in the log house I am working on. Some way over 700lbs. smearjay
ha ya i know its dangerous..but so far every tree i’v fallen has landed exactly wer ei want it to go. i cut like a v into the side of the tree were in which direction i want it to go. im cheating tho..haha im using a chainsaw..wich is mor dangerous but also much faster
how you doin? great video! How and what will you use to insulate the joints between the each and every log.
You can put fiberglass in between the logs and chink over it. I’ve used spagnum moss and clay. Basically, whatever turns the wind. Sometimes we use gypsum plaster which is also used in stucco siding. That has worked pretty good on our last cabin. Just be sure to put a buffer (insulation) between the inside chinking and outside chinking. Have a good one!
Nice video, after watching you make the first cut I wondered how many have you done where you were distracted, or tired, or just plain thinking of something else, and made the second cut on the wrong side? LOL, I thought of it like I was doing it myself.I’m sure after the first one you get real carefull!I know I would make at least one….LOL
how do i make a door to something like that’
I just lay some boards together and nail a cross piece at the top and bottom, then nail one board diagonally from the top piece to the bottom piece. Looks like a Z. Then I get some strap hinges, or gate hinges depending on how heavy the door is, and hang it up, fastening it to the door jamb. Thanks for watching.
thnx its gona help alot
also id like some help with making the door hole. ive got about all i need for logs, so do i have to prep any logs so i can make a space for the door to sit in? and if the door is a little to small how would i stop the drafts?
WOW! I just realized that I would trade everything I own for just 1% of the experience and knowledge of the people with whom I have come in contact. Which, now that I think a little harder, is a huge trade up cnsidering that I neither own nor know anything!
I think everyone has their own way of making door openings. My preference is to build the crib completely, then using a carpenter’s level, make plumb lines for the openings, fasten boards to either side of the opening (one screw into each log, including the log above and below, so they don’t drop) then chain saw out the hole. Use trim pieces around the inside of the opening to help reduce draft. Make the hole first, then fit the door to the hole. I have a video clip, I’ll post it.
Sharp axe !
How do you manage to get a watertight roof ?
Or better, do you know how the pioneers did this ?
Moving the cabin from event to event, I use 1″X8″X7′ boards, lay them in place and put a tarp over it. Permanent cabins get either a cedar shake or tin roof. If pioneers had access to timber which was readily split they too used shakes.
Or, lay in your purlins or rafters. Cover with a layer of approximately 2″ poles, lay on birch bark cover, white side up, then cover with about 8″ of sod. Be sure your roof frame is very sturdy. In my White Oak video there’s roof like this on the short walled cabin, this roof has been there for 20 years and repels rain.
Appalachian log home repair N.Y Great work, all cuts done with an axe.
What is best to use? Green trees, or seasoned? What species? I have mostly pine and tamarack, some lodgepole…but all green.
Green is fine. Settler’s didn’t wait two years while their logs dried, there just wasn’t that kind of time and they needed shelter immediately. I’ve used green pine many times. Just peel them, and allow for settling around the doors, windows and interior walls. 2-4 inches depending on the diameter of the log. Green is easier to work. The house I live in is white oak, which I dried for 5 years. Extremely hard to work and I still had to make allowances for settling. Good Luck.
Green is easy to peal but very very heavy
r u serious u have tamerack in the states wow!
well we call it tamarack…aka larch…the one that its needles turn yellow in the fall, and then fall off, and comes back in the summer, the only deciduous of the pine family (pine family, i think?) this is what wiki says “Larix laricina Tamarack Larch or American Larch. Plains of northern North America.” ……i live in NW montana
k yea yea tamarack is a native word meaning tree loses its nidels its the only tree with needels that actuly looses them but im surorises u have them that far south like in my town we dont even have them but where i hunt theres alot of tamarks
omg look at that crack tho dude u need to use logs closr to the same size so u dont get big cracks like that
Actually that’s wrong. You want to allow some chink gap, recommended is 2″-4″ so when the inevitable settling occurs the logs don’t start to lift each other out of the crib. If you’re doing Swedish coping method, your logs are dryer, however there is still an unseen gap between the logs. But thank you for sharing your expertise.
hey i’m thinking of building my own cabin and just wanted to say thanks for putting this video up,it was very helpful and also all the comments
Dry is also heavy in full log construction AND hard to peel.